If you only get one slice in Nassau, it’s the grandma at Umberto’s. Square, thin, crispy bottom, basil shredded on after the bake. It’s one of the most-reviewed pizzerias on Long Island, and the line moves like a place that has been doing this a long time.

Don’t bother with the round. Don’t bother with the specialty pies. One grandma, one cup, one paper plate. That’s the whole pitch.